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Monday, May 3, 2010

Mysore Trip Report

Decided to take Mysore trip by car, the popular historical places and short distance drive from Bangalore made it too tempting to resist.Two day weekend tour plan seemed liked the right way to approach.
 Saturday :

The drive : Bangalore to Mysore is about 140 kms. The old tour drive wisdoms says ' start early in the moring ' and thats what we did to beat the notorious traffic. At 5.30 am Saturday morning we embarked on our journey and reached the state highway in 20 mts time from Old airport road. The state highway to Mysore, SH-17, is 4-lane well made quality road, absolutely jerkless. One can drive at 100kmph on most part of the highway. Bangalore-Mysore has become an important corridor and I guess 4-lane is not enough, one can find good traffic along the entire 130 km stretch.Moreover villages and towns are present at every 10-15 kms with speed breakers and local traffic.Bangalore-Mysore needs a 6-lane expressway with uninterrupted traffic which I guess is currently underway, which will definitely reduce the travel time on highway from 2 hrs to 1 hr.

One can find lot of descend food joints starting wth ' kamat lokaruchi ' to cafe day, though I feel break in 100 km drive is a waste of time.Bidadi, Ramanagaram (Sholay was shot here), Channapatna (famous for wodden toys) ,Maddur ( maddur vada), Mandya ( sugar factory town), Srirangapatna ( Tipu's den) are the towns enroute.

Somnathpur : 10 kms before Srirangapatna there is a diversion to Somnathpur temple.We decided to take it, milestone said 32 kms. This route passes through complete village road ( drivable condition) and some of the scenes that you see enroute is really beautiful. Lush green paddy fields, water canals, unending lines of coconut trees and absolutely no traffic - a perfect getaway for a traffic tormented Bangalorean like me. Green,green & more green for the next 20 kms, felt like I have breathed pure air after decades.

Took 1 hr to reach the temple, bought Rs 5/- ticket and entered. The ticket looked like boarding pass absolutely unneccessary expenditure.I even asked the guy at the counter, why to print such expensive ticket when the fee is only Rs5/-, unfortunately he only understood kannada language.
                                  The temple made in 13th century is really good architecture, worth seeing.Every inch of space has some image sculpted and the modification of temple went on for 300 years. The images does say a lot about the lives and people at those times.
 This temple is worth seeing, only drawback is the distance, 60 kms to and fro.So if you are really pressed for time, can keep this for later. As far as I am concerned I enjoyed the drive through the fields and drinking real good coconut water ( upto 1 liter in each ) and seeing a very good architecture temple 700 yrs old at the end of it all was very satisfying.
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Mayura Yatri Niwas- Kstdc : By around 1 pm we reached Mysore city railway station and checked-in to our ultra cheap hotel nearby (50 meters from rly stn) run by Kstdc ( state tourism) - Mayura Yatri Niwas. The room was double bed without AC @ Rs 650/- per day with check-in time of 12 noon.The moment we opened the door of our room a deep strong stench greeted us.We opened the doors & window for 20 mts which reduced the effect somewhat but stench persisted for rest of our stay.

The hotel had no room-service (not even tea) and I felt that at this price demanding one would be a crime.The blanket looked liked being used since world war II, even beggars use better ones.
I strongly feel that govt should get out of this hospitality sector, sell all its hotels and may be regulate the tariffs from getting it sky rocketted. The hotel next to it, in the same compound, is also a govt run hotel with a restarant & bar.One can always hear tourist fighting with hotel staff for service.One guy waited at the table for 2 hrs for his breakfast, and then launched his attack at the manager, who seemed to be least bothered ( no one gets fired at govt enterprises). Rude & lazy staff in these hotels dont deserve their job even for single day.

If somebody is hell bent on saving money or is a born miser, then he should'nt look further, for everyone else discourage & dissmiss govt run hotels with unprofessional, unruly & lazy staff and stinking rooms.
Mysore Palace : At around 2 pm we headed to Mysore palace which is located in the heart of city, few kms from rly stn.Joined the queue for Rs 20/- ticket along with hundreds, the crowd was pretty good ( in thousands), but the palace is big enough to accomodate huge crowds.Only one ticket counter for such a crowd, took more than half an hour standing in sun to get tickets. Govt again is living in past, while tourist has multiplied ticket counters hasnt, poor mgt.

The palace is built by Wodiyars in 1897 so its comparatively new historical place.Wodiyars ruled the state of Mysore since 1200s with a brief interruption of 40 yrs by Haider & Tipu sultan in eighteenth century.Wodiyars have known to be good administrators which shows in the foundation of Mysore city.The palace has lots of paintings, photographs, huge rooms for different ceromonies with expensive chandeliers, collection of momentos & gifts recieved by wodiyars, arms collection, furnitures, clothes, etc.It gives an insight into lives of Wodiyar family and their extravagance.After the death of Tipu in 1799, wodiyars was given the kingdom back by British which used them as puppets.

The palace is must-see for any Mysore visitor.
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KRS Dam-Vrindavan garden : At around 5 PM we decided to go to Vrindavan garden at around 20 kms from the rly station. A decision we'll regret.

I remember visiting Vrindavan garden 20 yrs back with my family.The garden was really a treat to watch, with range of flowers, well cut hedges and fine carpet of grass. We were the only few people in the garden, a requirement to really appreciate the beauty of any garden.
Most of it has remained exactly the same except the number of visitors.More than ten thousand (conservative estimate) tourist were there on saturday evening to see the garden managed by state govt- people with small kids, old parents,foreigner, locals, outsiders.

The nasty experience started at the queue for ticket, hundreds in the queue with just two counters. People under scorching sun-pushing each other, jumping the queue,shouting- all for just an entrance ticket.There are food stalls just after the entrance with all kind of cold drinks and eatables on sale.No body enters the Vrindavan garden without the eatables - carrying drink bottles, fried items, polybags- they even allow people to sell eatable in the garden itself.The moment you enter the garden to see varieties of flowers you find that you cant see anything else except sea of people.There are people at each & every inch of the garden munching the eatables.I dont recall even a single flower that I saw there. Litters strewn all over the park and water in the fountains dirty as hell.I will never understand why they dont keep ' Waste bins' in these places, few bins for entire park and 10000 people.Disguisting !!

One of the highlights of Vrindavan garden is the musical fountain which happens everyday from 7-8 pm (weekends 7-9 pm).To go to musical fountain at the other end of the park one is supposed to cross a 50 meter long bridge.Saturday evening, 10000 people, 6 feet wide bridge and musical fountain about to start - all hell is about to loose. Hundreds of people on that narrow bridge , people going towards fountain and people coming from it, maddening crowd pushing against each other, women/children in extreme discomfort. We spend 1 hr on the bridge to-fro, an experience we would like to forget in a hurry.

The musical fountain played in session of three songs(hindi,kannada & patriotic) . Let me be honest, the musical fountain is no great shakes, and its small in size, hasnt changed in last 20 yrs. I have seen musical fountains three times in size played everyday in kolkata in front of victoria memorial and only few hundred people watches it.With all the pain taken its absolutely not worth it.

We watched a session and again passed through the ordeal on the bridge to go back to exit of garden.There awaited a bigger ordeal.Parking lot meant for 300 vehicles had atleast 1500 vehicles(four wheelers) parked. Volvo buses, cars, suvs, motor bikes everything was crammed-in.It was a utter chaos and complete traffic mess.People waiting on the roads for their buses to come out, people leaving on foot in dispair, childrens crying, buses meant for 40 people were carrying more than 200 people, horn honking, temper flaring and no qualified person to manage it all. It took 3 hrs to get my vehicle out of this mess.At one point I had given up and thought about sleeping in car whole night.Two lane road leading to garden had traffic coming as well as leaving.Hundreds of vehicle trying to leave on a single lane road created a big halting traffic mess. If they simply stop vehicles from coming-in after 7pm, only outgoing traffic will ease the congestion a lot, but who cares when the moolah is coming thick and fast ( Rs 30/- for car parking).

The country is in grip of population explosion and our infrastructure is failing miserably.Lot of people have moved into middle-class and started to travel. A place like vrindavan garden having over 10000 visitor on a single evening is unthinkable.One cant just manage these huge crowd like they did 20 yrs ago.It requires professional expertise with qualified people having project management expertise. Its high time govt starts doling out tenders to asset mgt companies to manage both the site as well as burgeoning visitors.
                                 On the positive side, its a very good sign for travel,fun and leisure industry. People are willing to lap whatever little is available and they are spending like anything.I saw poor family spending 200 Rs on just cold drinks.Time has come to really start planning to capitalize on it. Increase the musical fountain size by three time, may be create an indoor fountain show auditorium so that it can be played at all times of the day and accomodate 5000 people at one go, create a big world class aquarium in the vicinity, etc.Oppurtunity is just endless.

Advice : Dont even think of visiting this place on saturdays/sundays evening.Dont bother about musical fountains, you wont miss a thing.Visit during weekdays or before 4pm on weekends.
Day end : The forgettable experience at garden spoiled our mood and sapped all our energy. Went to a good restaurant, had couple of bottles of beer and good food and retired for the day.
Sunday :
We had a hectic last day so woke up late. AT 10 pm we started for Chamudeshwari temple on Chamundi hill, 12 kms from the city.The road to top of the hill was good, with beautiful view of city all around.Smarting from last day experience, I was expecting madding traffic here too, but compared to vrindavan it was nothing.It has atleast 4 parking lots so it was easy to find a space.Took Rs 100/- ticket for express darshan (normal darshan Rs 20/-) and we were done in 20 mts flat with sufficient time to see the deity. Saw the Nandi ,spent some time at various vantage points for city viewing and got down the hill.No descend breakfast joints there on the hill so come prepared.

Zoo : Next stop was zoo which was enroute to Chamundi Hills. Took Rs 30/- ticket and entered. The entire zoo tour takes 3 hrs approx.It starts with ziraffe and ends with crocodiles with their mouths open.It also houses several white bengal tigers.Being in cage they were really feeling restless, such pity being caged and then photographed by thousands.The highlight of the zoo was ' the only gorilla of India '. He stroke a pose and sit there, while people in hundreds clicked, as if trying to say ' you foolish humans thats all you do, cage us and click pics, go ahead I am striked a pose '.
                                  The zoo is not funded by state govt, one can own these pets. All the animals are being owned by people on a yearly basis, anil kumble supports a giraffe while chief minister a royal bengal tiger. One can really come foreward and support these animals to sustain this zoo.Again several thousand people were there in the zoo on sunday afternoon, but since zoo is several kms long, it didnt matter.
St.Philomena : At around 4.30 pm we came back to the hotel and took rest for an hour.We headed for St Philomena church, 4 kms from rly stn. Built in 1933, funded by wodiyars is around 40 meters tall with Gothic architecture.The architecture looks formiddable and imposing, stands out in the city.Attended an ongoing mass.Felt a lot peace and calm in there, there is something about these religious places that calms your nerves and makes you smile within.Spend sometime outside appreciating the height and left for our last stop.

Mysore palace lighting : Every sunday from 7-8 pm, the entire palace is lit by 96,000 bulbs.The illuminated palace is a major attraction of the city.We reached the palace gate at 6.30 pm, munched some snacks outside, strolled outside for sometime and then at 7 went inside the palace compounds ( no ticket required). 40,000 people were inside the compound to view the illumination, way beyond my expectation.I have only seen so many people in cricket stadium, but the palace compound is huge so it wasnt a problem. And you can bring your stuff inside, so people were seen muching eatables, people with complete luggage about to catch a bus/train, considerable amount of litter was being generated ( no dustbins again).
                                               Neverthless the sight is a treat to watch.Sitting with your family or friends in the lawns, with hugh illuminated palace in front, and chips & popcorns in plenty, is definetly time well spent relaxing.

At 8 pm the lights were switched off and this huge congregation of people started to rush out.This time I decided to wait till everyone has left instead of braving the crowd.There is a hundred year old temple in the campus, we decided to pay a visit.The feeling inside was divine, only 5-6 people inside and absolute silence.We sat there for half-an-hour and felt completely de-stressed and peaceful.100 yrs of continuous prayers being offered generates a kind of posiive vibration which stays in the place and has immediate effect on you once you enter.
Backward journey : From palace we headed to restaurant , had beer and food and back to hotel.Woke up monday morning at 4.30 am.did the checkout and hopped-on to car a 5 am. The highway was almost empty, did 100 kmph for most part of the highway, reached home at 8 am, slept for couple of hours and back to participate in rat race at office by 12.30am.
About Mysore : Mysore is definetly a clean city with proper infrastructure in place and good weather.The city still has its heritage charm and culture intact.City is fast becoming an economic hub but still has the charecteristic of small town living, easy going and simple.I loved the feel of Mysore which has lot of innocence still intact despite-of buzz in economic activities and commercialization in recent times.